South Central Ontario
Mennonites, Bridges, Gorges and Markets
by David "Sumoflam" Kravetz
May 14, 2008: On April 19th it was a beautiful Saturday and so I took an adventure north into what I am calling South Central Ontario. The trip turned into a full day affair and I put on about 170 miles on the my new Explorer. I knew I would be heading into Mennonite country, but did not know what else I would be blessed to see. It was truly a day of many different experiences. The map below shows the route I took from Paris.
Paris to Elora/Fergus and back
I left Paris at about 9:15, swung by the Paris Bakery for a couple of muffins and was on my way. As with most of my trips, I stuck with the back roads as much as possible. After leaving Paris I headed north on Puttstown Rd. and then west on County Rd. 8 towards Blenheim. Things were just starting to look green, but the flowers were not yet in bloom at this stage. I continued north towards New Dundee and then onto Oxford-Waterloo Rd. Eventually, I made my way through the small town of Haysville and finially made my way into New Hamburg, ON at about 10:15. New Hamburg has about 7000 people and is part of the larger municipality of Waterloo, though one cannot tell that it is even closely associated with Waterloo.
Typically, I do a lot of research before taking my trips, but this time I only had a few spots chosen out and the rest would be by chance. My objective in New Hamburg was to visit the Oak Grove Cheese Factory. As I have noted before, cheese is a big product in this part of Ontario and I actually wanted to go somewhere where I could see it made, or at least buy some. Unfortunately, Oak Grove does not have a tour type of thing...but they did have cheese. I picked up some curds to munch on and was on my way (curds and way...get it?) Some people came in and ordered from the "last batch" of "Cook Cheese" for the season. I wondered what Cook Cheese was, but they didn't have any there to sample. It is apparently a very creamy, almost liquid cheese. I think it comes from Germany and has been used by the Mennonites (also known as Kochkäse).
I got into the downtown area of New Hamburg and was pleasantly surprised to see that the beautiful Nith River flows through the middle of town and there is a wonderful little park which houses what is billed as the largest operating waterwheel in North America. It really was an imposing site from the bridge over the river, so I had to stop and take a walk. The ground was still a bit muddy from all of the flooding a couple of weeks earlier, but it was all very accessible.
The waterwheel is 50 feet tall and predominantly wooden. It was functioning while I was there. It was built in 1990.
This waterfall and bridge over the Nith River are in the same park as the waterwheel
Another pleasant treat was the large murals on the wall of the New Hamburg Fire Hall. As I travel more and more throughout Ontario, I am finding that murals on buildings are everywhere, adding to the color and personality of the towns that have commissioned them. This mural was done in 1993 by local artist Lance Russwurm, who was born in Kitchener, ON, and is 20' x 80' in size. According to his website, it was his first attempt at a mural.
Some sections of Russwurm's "Fire Hall" Mural in New Hamburg, ON
After a suprisingly delightful visit to New Hamburg, I crossed over the bridge and was ready to head north on Nafzinger Rd. when I ran into a little wagon stand operated by some Mennonite folk from nearby. They were selling maple syrup and some other maple products, as well as some jam. I stopped by and visited with Noah Martin and his daughter Christina. They sat cramped in a little buggy that had been converted into a sales cart. Noah's hands were big, rough and his nails still has dirt in them. I could see he was a farmer and worked on the land. They were cordial enough to let me take a photo of them and I promised to get the photo back to them (which I have yet to do). I bought some of their home made maple fudge. Ultra sweet and ultra yummy.
Noah Martin's syrup stand; some home made maple fudge; Noah and daughter Christina
Noah was from Wellesley, which was in the direction I was headed. Along the way I saw other folks selling goods and more signs of Mennonite life. I found a home that was selling jams and had some old buggies in the garage.
This Mennonite lady was knitting and selling syrup
A modern looking home with a buggy parked out front
I bought some jam and some pickled beets at this place
I have visited Amish and Mennonite areas in many parts of the U.S. and have seen a few here in Canada, but I was a bit surprised to see some apparent contradictions. I will point out first, that my commentary is not meant to be critical at all, but is probably more speculative. But, when I stopped by the house to buy my jam, the ladies of the house (grandmother, mother and daughters I assume) were all in the old garage sweeping up with handmade brooms and were in their bonnets and long dresses (they asked that I not photograph them, which I respected). They were cleaning out their electric freezer in a fairly messy garage. I also noticed that electric lines were running to the house. Though there was no sign of cars, there were three gasoline-powered tractors on the farm and one was out in the field working. Being the presumptuous type of guy that I am, I sincerely wondered (and still do) if much of the Mennonite garb and wagons and the like are now used mainly as a tourist drawing card. Some of these folks have expansive plots of farmland (as in dozens of acres) and some have very nice homes, as can be seen in the photo above.
I was struck by the contrast of modern homes
and a horse drawn buggy
Despite these feelings, I still believe that they are very industrious hard-working folks, who, like all of us, are trying to make ends meet. At least they are not being overtaken by the amazing gas prices (currently $1.25/liter in Paris, ON and $3.80/gallon in Lexington, KY).
While on my way north I also passed a small pond and there were some Canadian Geese that took to flight and I happened to get lucky and catch them (on camera).....
The Canadian geese are so graceful in flight
It was nearing lunch time and I had a destination already chosen for lunch. I was told to visit the Olde Heidelberg Restaurant in Heidelberg by some friends. I was also told specifically that I needed to try the pigtails. I made my way in and was seated. It is not a very fancy place inside and on this day it was also being frequented by a number of Asians that apparently had come from the Toronto area. After speaking to Bob McMillan, one of the owners, I found out that the Asians are very fond of the pork hocks that they offer. I opted for the wiener schnitzel dinner and a side of pigtails. I seriously considered trying the grilled limburger cheese sandwich as well (just kidding....about trying it that is...they are on the menu!). The restaurant was established in 1860 and was one of the first licensed brew-pubs in the region. I am not a beer drinker, but apparently they brew an Old Bavarian style of lager beer on site.
The restaurant is known for its pigtails, weiner schnitzel, pork hocks and home-brewed beer
Owner Bob McMillan brings out my pigtail, which comes with a slice of bread; my first-ever bite of pigtail
Pigtail and bread; Wiener schnitzel, mashed potatoes and sauerkraut -- yummiferous!
While at lunch I chatted with some of the "locals", farmers and merchants who live in the area. They told me of places I should go visit and talked of all sorts of other things. It was nice to have some company. They told me to visit St. Jacobs Market, which was on my agenda, but was not what I had hoped...way too commercialized.
St. Jacobs Farmers Market -- many people love it. I didn't. The town, about a mile away, was a bit touristy as well
Another of the places that they said was a "must see" and which I did not know about, was the W. Montrose Covered Bridge. According to the plaque, this is the only remaining covered bridge in all of Ontario. That is pretty amazing when you think about it. I have been to numerous covered bridges in Indiana and Ohio, but to think that Ontario is so huge and only has one remaining is quite interesting. It turns out that in the 1900s there were nearly 400 covered bridges built in New Briunswick and over 1000 built in Quebec, but there were only five documented covered bridges built in Ontario and this is the last one standing. The bridge is a two-span bridge that goes over the Grand River (the same river that flows near my apartment in Paris). It was built in 1881 by John Bear at a cost of $3557.65. The bridge is 64.4 meters (211 ft.) long and 5.1 meters (16.7 ft.) wide.
The W. Montrose Covered Bridge...Ontario's only remaining covered bridge
A satellite view of the bridge
(from Google Maps)
I drove over the bridge (no fear at all!) and then turned left and headed up the Grand River towards my next stop, Elora. The town is famous mainly because of the Grand River Gorge, the limestone cliffs cut deep by the river. I was not sure what to expect, but what I saw was magnificent, to say the least. There were numerous overlooks, but most required a hike and I was running late as it was nearing 3 PM. I did get into town, and it is a fun little town with lots of cafes and shops along the Grand River and some overlooking the gorge.
A couple of buildings in Elora
Some views of Elora Gorge from just outside of town
Well, by te time I ad driven around looking at the gorge and fought with all the traffic, it was time for me to head home. I went up north to Fergus just to see the town and scout it out for my next trip, and then headed south on highway 6 into Guelph and through Cambridge, slowly making my way back to Paris. It was a fabulous day and not one soon forgotten. I hope to make it back soon.
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